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Crested Geckocare guide

Correlophus ciliatus

A crested gecko needs a tall planted terrarium at room temperature, a misting every evening, and a dish of complete gecko diet. It is the cheapest reptile on bask to run and the only one harmed by the heat every other species needs. Above 28 °C it is in danger.

First reptile8 min read

Before you buy

It's the cheapest reptile on bask to run, and the only one that heat kills.

Adult length
18-23 cmIncluding tail
Adult weight
35-55 g
Lifespan
15-20 yr
Lifetime cost
≈ £2,400Lowest on bask
Licence
NoneNot CITES-listed

Know this first

  • Heat kills them. Every other species here wants a hot spot; a crested gecko above 28 °C for long is in trouble, and a viv on a sunny windowsill can kill one in an afternoon.
  • The tail does not grow back. A crestie drops it once and stays tailless for life. It lives perfectly well without one.
  • They jump, without looking where. Handle low, over something soft, and briefly.

Lifetime cost, vets and hygiene: handbook, Before you buy.

Morphs and welfare

bask applies REPTA's Deleterious Gene Policy in full. How the three groups work is in the handbook, Morphs and welfare. These are the crested gecko rows.

Prohibited: cannot be listed on bask

MorphCondition
Super Cappuccino Super Lilly WhiteStructural. A high likelihood of skull, spine and limb defects and skin problems. Super Lilly Whites rarely survive long past hatching.
Breeding guidance: healthy, but not to be paired with
This morphDo not pair with
Lilly Whiteanother Lilly White
Cappuccinoanother Cappuccino

A single-copy Lilly White or Cappuccino is a healthy gecko with no welfare note. When you enquire about one you confirm you have read the pairing guidance.

REPTA reviews its list every six months and bask follows each change. Checked against the list published on 6 September 2026.

Buying a crested gecko

The general seller questions, health checks and quarantine rules are in the handbook, Buying, collection, quarantine. For a crested gecko, push harder on these.

  • What it eats: which complete diet, and whether it takes it from a dish. A gecko raised on fruit or baby food may already have soft bones.
  • The tail. Tailless cresties are healthy and often cheaper; just know which you are buying.
  • Its genetics, if it is a Lilly White or Cappuccino.

Check the animal

A straight spine and tail with no kinks or waves, hips that hold the tail up when it hangs, all toes with no shed rings, clear eyes with intact crests, and a firm grip on glass with all four feet.

UK law

No licence; not on the Dangerous Wild Animals schedule and not CITES-listed. New Caledonia has not exported wild geckos for decades. Duty of care, business licensing and the release offence: handbook, UK law.

Before you buy for every reptile, in the handbook →

Setting up

Tall, planted and front-opening, at room temperature, with nowhere warmer than 28 °C.

The enclosure

Tall, planted, front-opening

StageGeckoMinimum enclosureNotes
Hatchling5-8 cmFaunarium, 20×20×30 cmIn a big planted viv a hatchling cannot find its dish
Juvenile8-15 cm30×30×45 cm
Adult18-23 cm45×45×60 cm60×45×60 or 45×45×90 is better. Height matters more than floor

A front-opening glass terrarium with a mesh top holds humidity from an evening mist, breathes through the top so it dries by morning, and takes plants. A wooden viv holds too much heat and moisture and rots. Keep them singly: males fight, a male with a female breeds her constantly, and a tail lost to a cage-mate is lost for good.

A tall planted glass terrarium with a crested gecko clinging to cork bark near the top, vines and leaves at several heights and a small food dish on a ledge.

Enclosure types, ventilation, locks: handbook, The enclosure.

Heat and light

Room temperature, with a ceiling

ZoneTargetNotes
Daytime22-26 °CA heated room usually provides this with no equipment
Warm spot, top of the vivup to 28 °COptional, and the ceiling
Night18-22 °CA drop is natural
Dangerover 28 °CStress, refusal to eat, death in a hot viv

If the room drops below 20 °C in winter, add a low-wattage deep heat projector or halogen on a dimming stat over the mesh top, probe at the highest perch, set to 26 °C, or a small mat on the side of the glass. Never a heater the gecko can reach, never a mat under a floor it lies on. A digital thermometer at the top of the viv matters more than any heater.

UVB

Zone 1, nocturnal. A 2.4 % or 6 % T5 tube on the mesh top for a UV Index of 0.5-1.0 at the top of the viv, 12 hours, with dense planting for shade. A small LED grow light on the same timer keeps live plants alive and gives a day-night cycle. Both sit outside the mesh, so allow for it.

Thermostats, probe placement, tube replacement: handbook, Heat, light and safety.

Humidity, planting and food ledge

Wet at night, dry by day, leaves everywhere

The cycle matters more than the number. Mist heavily in the evening until the glass and leaves run, so humidity peaks at 80-100 % and the gecko drinks the droplets. By the next evening it should have dried to 50-60 %. Always wet grows mould and skin infections; never wet gives stuck sheds and dehydration. If it never dries, more ventilation and less water; if it is dry by midnight, a coir floor, more plants and a light morning mist.

A bioactive tropical mix with springtails and woodlice, planted with pothos, bromeliads or ficus, holds the cycle and cleans itself. Coco fibre and artificial plants work. Nothing loose and fine a gecko could swallow lunging at an insect.

Planting is not decoration. A crestie sleeps in foliage by day and moves through it at night; a bare viv with one branch is a stressed gecko. Cork bark, vines and broad leaves at several heights, dense enough to cross the viv unseen. The food dish goes on a ledge in the upper half where the gecko lives, not on the floor.

Humidity: handbook, Humidity. Substrate compared: handbook, Substrate. Cover for tree-dwellers: handbook, Hides, cover and water.

Setting up for every reptile, in the handbook →

The first weeks

Don't handle it for 7-10 days. Fresh diet every other evening, and a heavy mist at dusk.

Bringing it home

A small ventilated tub with damp paper towel, in an insulated box at 20-25 °C, never in a hot car, straight into the planted viv. No handling for 7-10 days. Fresh diet in the dish every other evening, a heavy mist at dusk, and check the dish for tongue marks and droppings in the morning. A hatchling that has not eaten in a week needs the dish moved closer to where it sleeps.

Running the enclosure empty first, quarantine and the first fortnight for any reptile: handbook, The first weeks.

Handling

Low, brief, let it walk

  • Let it step onto your hand from a leaf; do not close fingers around it. Hand over hand as it walks, low over a bed or sofa.
  • Never restrain the tail. It comes off at a touch when the gecko is frightened.
  • 5 minutes, a couple of times a week, in the evening when it is awake. Tolerated, not enjoyed.
A crested gecko stepping from one open hand to another, its tail hanging free.

Photo: Yeh Xintong on Unsplash

The first weeks for every reptile, in the handbook →

Growing up

Complete gecko diet as the staple, dusted insects on the side, and weigh it every month.

Feeding

Powder and water, insects on the side

A complete crested gecko diet, a powder mixed with water to a ketchup consistency, is the whole diet. It carries the calcium and vitamins. Baby food and fruit purée are not substitutes and cause bone disease.

AgeGecko dietInsects
Hatchling and juvenileFresh every eveningSmall crickets 2-3 times a week, dusted
AdultFresh every 2-3 evenings, removed after 24 hCrickets or small roaches once or twice a week, dusted

A crestie kept on insects and fruit alone has soft bones within a year. One pack of diet lasts an adult two to three months, which is why this is the cheapest reptile here to run.

Keeping live insects and supplements: handbook, Food you store or keep alive.

Shedding

Overnight, eaten, check the toes

Cresties shed in one go at night and eat it. The evening mist is what makes it come off cleanly. Check toes, tail tip and the crests above the eyes after any day the gecko looked dull; skin left on the toes tightens and the toe is lost. Ten minutes in a humid tub, then a damp cotton bud. Never pull dry skin.

Treating stuck shed: handbook, Health.

Day to day for every reptile, in the handbook →

Adult life

Handle it low and briefly. A dropped tail never grows back.

Health

What crested geckos actually get

ProblemWhy cresties get itWhat to do
Metabolic bone disease
Kinked spine, wavy tail, soft jaw, wobbly hips
Fed fruit or baby food instead of a complete diet; breeding females drained of calciumVet. Complete diet, calcium on every insect, rest a female from breeding
Floppy tail syndrome
Tail flops over the back when it hangs head-down
Weak pelvis, from calcium and from hanging upside down on flat glassDiet as above, and more branches so it rests on angles rather than glass
Overheating
Gasping, flat on the floor, dark, off food
A sunny window, a room over 28 °C, a heater with no statMove it to a cool room at once and mist. Same-day vet if not better within an hour
Dehydration
Sunken eyes, wrinkled skin, sticky mouth
Missed evening mistsMist, and a shallow dish. Vet if severe
Tail lossGrabbed, startled, a cage-mateKeep the stump clean; heals in weeks, never regrows
Egg binding (females)Infertile eggs without a male. No laying site, low calciumA laying box of damp coir on the floor. Straining with nothing laid is a same-day vet

Respiratory infection, mites, mouth rot, parasites and the same-day signs: handbook, Health. Finding a vet: handbook, Vets and insurance.

Health for every reptile, in the handbook →

Where the advice has changed Older advice you might still come across, and what we back instead

Crested gecko care changed when a complete diet became available. You'll still see some of these on older care sheets and in shop advice. We've looked at both sides, and this is what we back.

Older adviceWhat we backWhy
Mashed banana, baby food and a few cricketsA complete crested gecko diet, insects on the sideFruit and baby food have no calcium worth the name. The bone disease and floppy tails of the 2000s came from that diet
Room temperature is fine, no thermometer neededRoom temperature, with a digital thermometer at the top of the vivThe danger is heat: a warm room or a window. Cresties die of it far more often than cold, and nobody notices without a thermometer
No UVB; they are nocturnalLow UVB with shadeThey are exposed to dawn and dusk light in the wild, and a low tube makes them visibly more active and colourful
Keep the glass wet all the timeWet at night, dry by dayPermanently wet vivs grow mould and give skin and respiratory infections. The daily dry-out is what keeps them healthy
A pair or trio can share a tankSinglyCage-mates take tails, and a crestie's tail does not come back

Where next

Reviewed 16 September 2026. This guide isn't veterinary advice. If your animal shows signs of illness, it needs an exotics-experienced vet. Read PAAG's buying advice alongside it before you commit to an animal. PAAG

Spotted a number that's wrong, or know a better one? We'd rather fix a guide than defend a figure. Send a correction

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